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Posts Tagged ‘Moore Haven’

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The first time I circumnavigated Lake Okeechobee was the Saturday after Thanksgiving, 2005. I was still living in Gainesville at the time, though it was only about 3 months later that I moved back to Ocala. I was visiting Mom in Ocala for Thanksgiving, of course. Aunt Kathryn, her sister, was staying with her for a few days. I think this was after Mom had fallen and injured her arm, and I was coming down every weekend to check up on her.

But after only a couple of days, I needed an escape. I loved Mom, but Aunt Kathryn and I… I could be civil and all, but she’d get on my nerves after just having dinner with her. Two days and I… Well, like I said, a break was called for.

So I decided to drive all the way around Lake Okeechobee. That was one of the many things I loved about Mom. She never begrudged me my roadtrips. She encouraged them, in fact. She practically shooed me out the door that day.

That trip was after Hurricane Wilma had gone through the area a month before. I saw a lot of blue roofs that day. All the blue tarps, doncha know. Pahokee was particularly depressing. A warehouse had completely collapsed. However, on future trips I noticed that not much else changed there. Hard to believe it’s in the same county as Mar-A-Lago. Talk about your extremes.

The trip starts in the county seat of Okeechobee, Okeechobee, on the north shore of Lake Okeechobee. Get there from the north down US 441 or US 98, from the south around whichever side of the lake is closer.

The city has only one NRHP, the Freedman-Raulerson House. It’s the southernmost site of interest in town.

But we’re starting at the north end of the city. If you come in on US 98, you’ll pass an old Elementary Schoolhouse near the airport. It’s part of the local historic society now. Further down is the Livestock Market, which dates back to the 1920s. (see Google map)

On US 441, you’ll start at the Amtrak station. There’s an old railroad depot there, and it’s in sad shape. Probably going to be demolished before long, unless the reno bug bites someone.

There are a slew of sites, though, from the AGFHA. Highlights are the courthouse and city hall. I was annoyed that I couldn’t find the old jail, but discovered recently that it was demolished not long before I started looking for it. C’est la vie.

The “houses” I included, though to me they’re not much to look at. Very ramshackle frame vernacular. If that doesn’t interest you, skip them, and you’ve not missed much. The rest of the buildings are more charmingly historic to my mind, even the rundown ones. (see Google map)

There’s tons of fishing in the lake, hence the Speckled Perch Festival in March. If that’s your thing, this place is for you. If you want to make a weekend of it to explore the area, spend the night here. I got a good rate at the Flamingo Motel, but there’s others around. Check for pricing and season first, since some times of year the lodging is way more expensive than others.

For food I recommend Cowboys BBQ and Steak Company. Make sure you get them to use the pepper mill on your food, it’s a laugh.

Now you’re ready to go around the lake. The Lake Okeechobee Scenic Trail (LOST) does so, mostly atop the Herbert Hoover Dike. It’s a hiking/biking/equestrian trail. It’s about 100 miles all the way round, and takes about a week if you’re walking. I don’t know how you arrange where to stay at night, or where to leave your car overnight. There is some information about the trail here. You can find out about three of the segments here, here, and here.

So, south on US 441 until the road splits around the lake. Hang a left. In about two-and-a-half miles, you’ll arrive at the Okeechobee Battlefield State Park, a National Historic Landmark. Which is completely unmarked. It took me forever to find out where it was. Even online resources aren’t terrific. There’s not much to see, just trees and grass. I’m sure it livens up at the annual reenactment.(see Google map)

Continue south on US 441. There are numerous access points around the lake where you can get off the road, drive over the dike and see the lake. I suggest doing that at least once from the north, south, east and west. It’s pretty amazing gazing across a lake whose opposite shore can’t be seen. It’s like looking at the ocean. I’ve never seen sunrises or sunsets on the lake, but I imagine they’d be well stunning.

Hang another left where indicated and continue to SR 710. Turn right and keep going south. Not much traffic and not much to see. Maintain the course until you get to Indiantown. It has only one site of interest that I know of, the Seminole Inn. Follow the link and find out more about the place’s connection to the British royals.

South some more, then east on SR 76 back towards the lake. You’ll reach the bustling metropolis that is Port Mayaca before long.

OK, not really. Port Mayaca isn’t much more than a name on a map. You’ll pass the cemetery first, where a lot of casualties from the 1928 hurricane are buried. Just off the lake is the Cypress Lodge, which is either a private home or a B&B. Appreciate it from outside the fence.

The bridge over the Port Mayaca Lock is a good vantage point to see the Lake. It’s one of the few elevated points like it. Slow down, or even pull over, and take a gander.

Between the towns and cities around the lake, there are houses here and there, but not much development. Which is why I like this drive. It’s one of those trips where you can just… be.

Now for the downer part of the trip. Well, the most downer part. Further south is a merely blah place.

As opposed to Pahokee. I’ve heard how local high school football players hope to get scholarships, so they can escape the town. I can see why. The outskirts aren’t too bad, and kind of quaint. But once you get into the town itself, you’ll be struck by an air of resignation that seems to hang over the place. There are a few sites of interest in town, but get out of your car to see them at your own risk. There is a nice city park on the lake, which may have been a state park in the past. If you need a rest stop, this is the place. It’s one of the few places in town where I felt safe leaving my car and walking around.

This also has one of the worst maintained sections of US 441, or any US highway for that matter, in the state. Long stretches are bumpy and rutty. I’m not sure whether it’s lack of funds or soil quality that’s responsible. Probably a bit of both.

Eventually you’ll leave Pahokee and be driving on the newest section of US 441. I remember when I passed through in 2005, there was a section (maybe three or four miles) where the road curves west that was completely torn up. I mean there was US 441, then there was dirt. Obviously I had to detour. Annoying, since it was the only stretch of US 441 in the state I hadn’t driven on. Conscious.

OK, hopping into the wayback machine. Destination: somewhere around 1983. While living in Gainesville, I went down to an SCA event in South Miami. I convinced a couple of friends to join me. We stayed around for a day or so after. The last night, we stayed up way late. Like after midnight. The sensible thing would have been to return on the Turnpike. But you know how I feel about that. Somehow, I managed to convince the other guys it’s be a good idea to drive back to Gainesville on US 441. From Miami. All the way. Ah, youth.

Yep, driving through south Florida on US 441 was an experience, but because of the hour, the traffic wasn’t that bad. I did that first stretch of driving, since I was more familiar with the area. Once we got out of the West Palm Beach environs, it was smooth sailing to Belle Glade. I think it may have been after sunrise by this point. In any case, I let one of the other guys drive while I napped in the back. We were in a station wagon, so there was plenty of room for me to lounge and conk out. I’m not sure when I woke up, but I think it was by the time we reached Orlando. Ultimately, a trip that should have taken about 8 hours (lower speed limits back then) lasted closer to 12. But we sure saw a lot of Florida.

So yeah, I’d been on US 441 along Lake Okeechobee, but I was asleep at the time. And then in 2005 they had that section south of Pahokee torn up. It wasn’t until about 5 years later that I got back and was able to drive that last bit.

OK, back to the roadtrip. The next spot of civilization is the aforementioned Belle Glade. Civilized in the broad sense. It’s just so underwhelming. I guess there have to be a few dull towns here and there.

You’re on SR 80 now, since US 441/US 98 split off to the east a couple miles back. Next you’ll hit South Bay. Be careful and watch the signage. If you blink, you’ll wind up on US 27 going south to Miami.

Once you’re going west, there’s a fairly constant look along the road. Sugar cane fields to the left of you, Herbert Hoover Dike to the right. The dike will be on your right the whole trip, but this section is the closest and highest part. If you need to stretch, go no further than John Stretch Park in Lake Harbor. You can also go a little south and drive along the surviving old sections of US 27, if you’re not in a hurry. After fourteen-ish miles from South Bay, you’ll reach Clewiston, the sweetest town in Florida.

Because of all the sugar cane, and it being the home of US Sugar Corporation and all. This would be another good place to spend a night if you want to explore the area. I did on my way to Naples, in a nice efficiency room at a motel that was less expensive than some fancier hotels I’ve stayed at. I also napped for a bit in the Wal-Mart parking lot early in the morning when headed for Miami. See, another reason I like US 27 over the Turnpike. What can’t you find inexpensive to munch on at Wal-Mart?

There’s various spots to see in Clewiston. You can get walking trail maps to help you see them at city hall. But make sure you see the old Clewiston Inn. It looks like it’d be nice to stay in, if you’ve got the bucks. Do consider dining there, too. They have fancy food, and barbeque. Yeah, weird. Apparently, there was a popular BBQ place in town that closed, and the Inn bought all their recipes. I got the fancy food, which was a bit pricey, as fancy food will be. But it was very tasty, and worth the price.(see Google map)

To see some more activity in town, visit in March for the Big “O” Birding Festival, or April for the Sugar Festival

If you want to go way out of the way, the Ah-Tah-Thi-Ki Museum is 40 miles south. I’ve not been there, so dunno what it’s like. Included for the sake of thoroughness.

Heading west again, you’ll arrive at an intersection you’d expect to see in the heart of Orlando or Miami. I remember driving by it back in the ’80s, and it weren’t hardly nothing. I guess there’s more traffic coming through here now, though you couldn’t prove it by me. How times change. If you continue straight ahead, you’ll eventually wind up in LaBelle, then Fort Myers. But stay on US 27 and head north. You’ve passed beyond the land of sugar cane, and now mostly will see open fields to your left. Until you get to Moore Haven, the county seat of Glades County.

First, though, you’ll pass over the Caloosahatchee Canal Bridge. It’s strange seeing such a big fancy bridge in such a small town. But the canal is part of the Okeechobee Waterway, which is a major boating artery. It connects Stuart on the east coast to the Gulf of Mexico.

I imagine how many people travel through Moore Haven on the way to somewhere else. It’s like so many small towns. Folks don’t even think about where they are, only wherever they’re trying to get to. I know I did, before I learned some of its history. But if people would take a little time and depart from the road well-travelled, they’d get a sense of the history of Florida. I know I did.

There are only a few spots on my list in the town. But they speak to a major tragedy in the state’s past. First is the Glades County Courthouse. After you cross the bridge, ’tis only a few blocks on the left. It’s one of the few structures to have survived the 1928 hurricane and the flooding from Lake Okeechobee that it caused.

Go down to Avenue J, then head east. You’ll soon come to old downtown Moore Haven. The block-long stretch ending at the canal is the downtown historic district. And at the end is the Lone Cypress. Long used as a navigational aid, it’s a stately reminder of times gone by. Take a while to appreciate this marvel that’s stood in this spot for over a century.

There’s a city park on the street too, if you need a pit stop, if you know what I mean.

Just south of the downtown historic district is the residential historic district. It covers roughly 15 blocks, and is full of old frame vernacular homes, but in rather good shape. Many were built after the big hurricane, so it’s something that so many of them are still around. (see Google map)

Apparently, the town is really jumping in March during the Chalo Nitka Festival and Frontier Days.

Once you’ve finished seeing the Moore Haven that was, it’s time to head west again. If you go far enough, you’ll see a sign pointing toward the Ortona Indian Mounds. I’ll be covering that on a future post, which will be about LaBelle and points south.

However, we’re not going that far, and staying around Lake Okeechobee on his trip. So at SR 78, turn right. You’ll be going north from this point on.

On this side of the lake, the road veers further away from the dike than the other sides. At some spots, you’ll barely see the dike at all. Mostly prairies on you’re left. You’re close to cattle country now.

I’ve not seen it, but there’s a hiking trail to the site of an old fort (Fort Center) around Lakeport.

You’re now on the outskirts of the Brighton Seminole Indian Reservation. To get there, you can either turn onto CR 74, then head north on a dirt road. Or you can go on until you reach CR 721 (Reservation Road) and head north.

If you take the dirt road (whose condition I can’t vouch for), the next site will be on your left before you cross a bridge over Harney Canal, about 7 miles up. If you take the better paved route, go up Reservation Road about five-and-a-half miles and turn left on SR 721A (Harney Pond Road). In 3 miles, you’ll cross over Harney Canal, and the Red Barn will be on your right.

It’s one of the more recent additions to the NRHP (2008). It was one of the more difficult to find, as the address was extraordinarily vague. Fortunately, I found the NRHP nomination form, which had enough info to determine where it is. It’s in good shape, which is always nice to see.

Back to Reservation Road and head north until you get to SR 70. Or head back to SR 78, then north back to Okeechobee. If you opt for SR 70, you can head east back to Okeechobee, or west to Lake Placid. Which is another post.

If you’re back in Okeechobee, you made it! You have successfully circumnavigated the largest freshwater lake in Florida, and second largest freshwater lake in the lower 48. Congratulations, you.

To get back where you’re coming from, you’ll probably want to get to the Turnpike. However you go, stay safe, and see you on the road!

Route length: 120 miles

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Couple of weeks back I stayed away from home Saturday and Sunday. I partially re-enacted my Easter trip earlier this year. Managed to knock out 4 counties worth of NRHPs, Okeechobee, Glades, Hendry and Highlands. Also made more of a dent in Polk. The routes:

Day 1Day 2

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Wound up waking up at 7, ‘cause I didn’t notice there was a window in the kitchenette area, so failed to cover it. Live and learn. Got cleaned up and some coffee in me, which pepped me up. Loading the car helped too, since it was a bit brisk and breezy outside. Not a cloud in the sky either. The weather proved to be spectacular the whole day.


One of the two Clewiston Historic Schools buildings

Got out by 8:30, and found my first photo op easily, the Clewiston Historic Schools (photos). This was the beginning of second theme of the trip. The first, lest we forget, was construction. Number 2 was schools. I saw more historic schools all over the place than I have on any other trip. Usually for me it’s churches that I run across. The school theme, though, will become obvious as I recount my journey. The sub-theme of this was that almost all the schools I ran across were closed, even the ones I hit on Monday and Tuesday. I guess it was spring break in southwest Florida. Lucky me.

Next I got three historic houses that were fairly close together. And theme number 1 reared its ugly head, as the street they were on was tore up. Not so much that I couldn’t get close enough to take pictures, but still.

Then I went back to the Clewiston Inn and parked. From there I was able to walk and get the rest of the stuff in town I needed (the Inn, the Dixie Crystal Theatre, the local history local history museum, and city hall). As a bonus, I stumbled across the offices of US Sugar, so I snapped a couple of that.

I headed west about 10 and stopped at the local Super Wal-Mart before I completely left town. Mostly it was because of a minor recurring car issue. I picked something up that corrected the problem for the rest of the trip and a few weeks after, hurrah. Also picked up some trail mix to snack on if need be, and these cool individual powdered coffee creamer tubes that Mom found out about and liked. Didn’t take too terribly long and was back on the road soon after.

I kept an eye out, and still no mile markers. It must be something they’re doing in Palm Beach County only. The US 27 and SR 80 intersection (street view) is jazzed up. I can remember on my numerous trips to Miami how basic it was. Stop sign from the SR 78 side and that was it. Now there’s lights and nice road paving and everything.

Yes, I would go down US 27 to Miami, not the Turnpike. Back in the 80s I hated being a hostage to it. The tolls, the expensive food and gas at the toll plazas, it was a racket. It’s better now, but I hardly ever need to use the Turnpike anyway, ‘cause it’s not usually convenient to the way I travel. The day before was probably the third time I’ve used it in 10 years. US 27 was so much more scenic, and only took an hour longer. The only bad part was south of Lake Okeechobee, and that’s finally been four laned, so it’s all good. Mind you, there’s been a crapload of development on some stretches, especially around the main routes to Orlando. Still, I prefer my good old US 27. A friend of Mom’s still goes that way to visit her family in south Florida, so I’m not the only one.

Heading north on US 27, it’s only a few miles before you see the bridge over the Moore Haven Canal (above), bigger than life (street view). It’s the biggest thing in Moore Haven, really. It’s strange seeing it this way, since as much as I hate the Turnpike, I’d usually drive it on the way back from Miami. Driving US 27 at night was scary. There was so much nothing, and being way before cell phones, God help you if you had a car problem.

So there’s the bridge and what’s the first thing I see after I’m over it? The Glades County Courthouse (above). It was getting well after 11, and the midday light (the couple of hours before and after the sun hits its zenith) is the best for photos, I think. Though near sunset has its advantages at times. While photographing, I looked and looked, and couldn’t see the waterline. When the area was flooded in 1926, the first floor of the courthouse was totally submerged. There’s still a faint line where the water rose to, but I couldn’t see it. Something to think about, though.

I backtracked to hit the downtown historic district (photos and street view) first, since it’s only a block long. The dilapidated state of the old buildings is sad, and an odd contrast to the new park across the street from them. My favorite part of the district, though, is on the canal which was dredged years ago to connect Lake Okeechobee and the Caloosahatchee River. Right there at the end of Avenue J is the Lone Cypress Park (street view), one of the smallest parks I’ve seen. I don’t think it’s even half an acre. At the center is the Lone Cypress, used as a navigational aid way back when. It really stands out, as you hardly ever see cypress trees like this in Florida. And this one looks like, I know this sounds like an oxymoron, but it looks like a giant bonsai. It looks very sculpted and stately. Peaceful, too. It’s the kind of tree you could sit under and read a book for hours.


A Masonic Lodge, in the residential district

After that I drove around the residential historic district (photos) and took pictures. The houses are all very old frame vernacular style buildings, quite a few on the ramshackley side. I’m not sure if any of them were survivors of 1926 flood, but if not they were probably built not much later.

I stopped at the larger city park and called my friend Richard. I used to call Mom around 11 when I was at work, and did the same when I was on a roadtrip. Then I’d call her every two to three hours after, so in case anything happened to either of us, the other could notify authorities and that sort of thing. Now that she’s gone, I thought it would be a smart idea to still continue that, for safety reasons. Even though it was nearing noon, it was still cool in the shade. I love spring in Florida.

As I headed west out of town, I thought of all the people who’ve driven through Moore Haven over the years. Passing through, with little thought of where they were, only where they were going. A few minutes, a half-hour, just a little time taken out of their travels and they could have discovered a little gem like the Lone Cypress Park. I’ve said for the longest time that you should enjoy the journey as much as the destination. So many are in such a hurry, how much better our lives would be if we slowed down every so often to enjoy the scenery.

I thought there weren’t any BP gas stations for a ways, but before I got out of Moore Haven, whoomp, there one was.

To explain. I got gas cards for BP for this trip. That way I wouldn’t need to carry as much cash. They’re much more convenient, and BP gas is often the cheapest. This was all before the spill, mind, but I may still use them in future, since it takes some of the worry out of travelling.

I really wanted to see what was left of the Cypress Knee Museum (street view), but it was rather out-of-the-way, so skipped it.

Ah, the Cypress Knee Museum. So sad it closed back in 2000. There’s not much left of it, I gather. I always looked forward to it on my trips down to Miami. I never actually stopped there, but it was a comforting landmark. And all the Burma-Shave style signs the owner put up along US 27 to let people know about it. The place was everything I love about kitschy tacky touristy Florida. Some may not like that aspect of our fair state, but to me, that’s part of its charm. I finally did stop there a couple years after it closed, and I can only imagine what it was like in its heyday. If I’d taken half-an-hour whilst it was still in business… Ah, regrets.

Just about when I decided to skip the museum, I saw one of the familiar brown signs for a Florida Heritage Site. One that I never knew about. It wasn’t much of a detour, so I took a turn and headed down SR 78. Which went through major cattle country. I really hadn’t realized how extensive the industry was. It looks like it’s in every county around Lake Okeechobee, and the counties next to them.


Panorama view in Ortona Indian Mounds Park

I reached Ortona, but you couldn’t prove it by me. Drove by the local cemetery, where Billy Bowlegs III is buried. Just past it is a dirt road which leads to the heritage site, a park behind the cemetery. Ortona Indian Mounds Park, that is (street view of entry road). I didn’t see much in the way of mounds, as they appeared to be overgrown. Nice little park, however. Had a small portable building that was a police station. The park was right on the shores of Lake Wobegon too. No, not that one.

Onward after that to SR 29 south. I soaked in the isolation of it all. Hardly any signs of civilization. This is what Florida must have looked like back in the 19th century and before. An air conditioned car stocked with Altoids, the open road, what more could you ask for?

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